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Description: Built more than 50 years ago, the Ilala ferry has travelled more than two million miles and is something of a Malawian institution. A round trip takes 24 hours (more or less, depending on whether there are delays or not) and makes about 14 port stops along the way. The noisy, uncomfortable heaving mass of humanity and livestock cargo of third class is the way north; the return trip is enjoyed on the first class deck, although this does not mean a cabin – sleeping arrangements are outside under the stars.
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