Journal

Day 5: Goodbye Elgin Chickens, Hello Karoo Lamb

We left Elgin as early as possible and made our way up the N2 as far as George, where we then travelled inland over the Outeniqua pass. It was goodbye to the sea for now and hello to the Karoo (South Africa’s largest semi-arid desert). We drove through Uniondale to JP Smit’s free range lamb farm, just outside Aberdeen – our home for the next 4 days.

There was added motivation to get there as quickly as possible; The Stormers (Cape Town) were playing the Bulls (Pretoria) in the Super 14 Rugby final. The result didn’t go in our favour and the Bulls won for the 3rd time in 4 years… but such is life. It was really lekker to feel as far away from civilisation as one can. We braaid lamb chops – a nightly occurrence from here on in – you won’t hear me complaining!

Day 6: Day of Rest

The next day we took it as quietly as possible, which basically meant we were allowed a couple hours (for those who didn’t need to shoot sunrise, of which I am one) extra to sleep. Sunday is meant to be the day of rest isn’t it? We ended the weekend on a high, with lamb chops on the braai.

Day 7: Sunrise to Sunset

Monday morning started particularly early for me, at 4:15 am instead 5:15. My subconscious was still on a high and I couldn’t wait to get out into the Karoo, catch an epic sunrise (they’re spectacular every day) and start my first day as a real veld farmer.

Justin was so eager that he volunteered to help herd the sheep to the kraal, where we’d be working. Now I wasn’t completely aware of this at the time but these are WILD sheep, which means that each section of the farm allows for an area roughly the size of three to four rugby fields (per sheep) and there are between 100 and 300 sheep in each flock. (JP says “1 square mile equals 1 square meal, per day”), so you can imagine how far Justin and Sunel (with camera in toe) had to walk before the days work really began.

So Justin, Sunel brought in their flock, another two herds followed. And now it was time to get snipping. Once the lambs are about 8 weeks old they have their tales cut off. This is something that is done to prevent them from falling ill, because without removing their tales, they will almost definitely fall victim to disease, which makes you wonder, what did they do before man was their master or have we in the process of domesticating them, bread out all their natural resistance to viruses?

Anyway, the also are vaccinated for a number of diseases, the boys have the nads (testicles) tied – which is noticeably uncomfortable for them. This is one of those “oowh!” moments for any man watching this atrocity take place. What happens is that the blood stops flowing to their jewels and they fall off (can’t say I approve of this)
We braaid lamb chops for dinner – yum!

Day 8: Say Goodbye with a Spit Braai

Our time in the Karoo sadly had to come to an end but before we left we needed to get together for a bit of a skop. JP invited a few mates around and in true Karoo style we spit braaid a whole lamb. Basically what happens is the lamb is slaughtered, hung for a few days and it is then rubbed in various herbs and spices and then slow roasted over a fire (we used a gas fire) for about 5 hours.

Justin rubs his in loads of chopped fresh garlic, dried oregano, coarse sea salt and Vesuvio olive oil but you can add what you like. To keep the meat moist, every now and then, Justin bastes the lamb in good lashings of all these aromatics. This is one the best lamb I’ve had. Ask anyone who knows me, I know my lamb.
JP was the most hospitable host. Thank you for opening your home to all 12 of us (we overran the place a bit) If you are ever in the neighborhood (Cape Town) you are always welcome brother.

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